After a long flying trip, we touch down Asiatic lands. We stop at Singapore as we are flying with Singapore airlines. Our flight to Yangon is late, so we decide to do the Free Singapore Tour from Changi Airport. We are just passing through this tiny island-state, but we let Singapore’s sights and sounds, colours and beats, energy and electricity enthral you on the tour. To do it you have to dispose at least of 5-6 hours. You can visit the Singapore Flyer, The Esplanade, Marina bay Financial Centre, Merlion Park, Marina Bay Sands and the Gardens by the Bay. I absolutely recommend doing it if you can combine your travelling schedule.
DAY 1: The city with no enemies
YANGON
Even
though it is no longer the nation's official capital, Yangon – formerly Rangoon
– remains Myanmar's largest and most commercially important city. Most visitors begin and
end their journey to the country here. Yangon is a huge city, by far the
biggest in Myanamar. It is where the richest and business people live and where
the prizes are higher.
However,
the lack of development that has allowed retaining its colonial charm also
means that pavements and roads are in a terrible state of repair, you may find
a rat or a cockroach between the markets, and there is often no electricity. But whatever you do in Yangon, you will find
a vibrant and overwhelmingly friendly city that is quite different to
any other.
It has
many colonial-era building especially around the bottom of Pansodan Street and
Sule pagoda Road, built when until 1885 British held the country. Yangon’s
buildings are also coloured what reflects the city’s history and ethnic and
religious diversity.
LET OUR DAILY JOURNEY START…
Just walking down the
stairs to the ground floor, we get really surprised. There are lots of men
wearing a strange skirt! My God! Is this Scotland? We continue our way and
finally we find a man who is holding a paper where is hand-written our family name, he will be our friend, our accompanying for our trip: San Yu. Our tour guide. An actual Burmese: sympathetic, honest, kind, discreet and as his name says in Burmese: SINCERE.
We exchange some
dollars into Kyats in the same airport, San Yu tell us that 600$ are enough to
pay souvenirs, food in the local restaurants, buy in the markets, giving tips…
during two weeks. In hotels, airports and public places you can pay with US
dollars.
We get out of the
Yangon Airport, the main entrance of the country, few years ago the unique
entrance of strangers to the country. However, nowadays people can get out of
Myanmar throughout Yangon or Mandalay airports.
An hour later, we get
in the middle of the busy and crowded Yangon,
the city without enemies. My eyes don’t know where to look, everything is
absolutely outstanding. Buses overly filled of Burmese people, people driving
cars from the right side in top gear, each man with his long typical skirt: the
“Longhi”, young and old people standing up in the cub truck… The air you breathe,
the people smiling, their kind glances, your surroundings… do you forget get your
world in the twinkling of an eye and you get into a new reality, unknown but
fascinating.
My senses can’t deal
with all that surrounds them. Our guide is explaining and explaining lots of
things, everything is interesting. However, I can’t stop looking at the
spectacle of the streets.
We arrive to Kandawgyi Palace Hotel and do the
check-in. The Kandawgyi Palace Hotel, Yangon situated in its
privileged position on the shores of the tranquil Kandawgyi Lake. It has got an incredible welcoming hall and
the kindness of the employees is phenomenal. The teak bedrooms are also
fantastic and confortable. In the evenings you can eat in 3
different restaurants inside the hotel: in the international, in the Japanese
or in the French cuisine restaurant. From my own experience I can recommend the
international one where you have a huge variety of all kinds of food and
everything tastes delicious. It costs
around 75$ for a double room.
DAY 2 “Earth never ceases to amaze me”
After a delicious and
varied buffet breakfast in Kandawgyi Palace Hotel we meet our patient guide
waiting for us in the lounge. We get into the particular car driven by a
well-experienced local and go to the heart of the city.
The first contact with
the lively city is in the Chaukhtatgyi
Paya temple. After taking just one step inside, you quickly see why
this temple in particular is so special. It is a praying site where Buddhist
people from Yangon and pilgrims come to pray in front of the reclining Buddha.
The statue is 65 metres long, in fact, is one of the biggest reclining Buddha
statues in the Southeast of Asia. The face of the Buddha statute is topped by
lots of diamonds and other precious stones. 
People come here to
meditate and pray. It is usually a crowded but also an extremely cleaned site
thanks to the dedicated voluntary Buddhist followers. They go there and clean
it without any kind of profit body, just to take care of his loved Buddha. This
touches me. Will this be possible in my country? Will be anyone who works daily
for the community with non-profit body? I believe that many few of us will do
it. 
We continue our route
and we reach the Bogyoke Aung San Market,
sometimes called by its old British name: Scott Market. It has over 2000 shops
and the largest selection of handicrafts and souvenirs. You can find from
Chinese or the famous Jade jewellery, Burmese puppets, coloured tissues, all
ethnicities clothes to all kind of local food.
Walking through the
streets we find a pharmacy. Our guide explains to us that you can find
traditional medicine and some European drugs on it. It is very rudimentary. I
wonder how the medical services outside the main city of the country are. We
cross the Chinatown where there are
many shops offering every thinkable commodity one can get, and then the Indian
Quarter where we sense the sounds, smells and colours of the typical Indian
herbs and spices. After that, we visit another market. This one is more
authentic than the first one. There are lots of tropical and strange fruits,
alive fishes just got outside the rivers, vegetables and meats.
We have lunch and meet
the typical plates of the country. We can see its variety of food and the
Asiatic way to serve it: in many little and varied plates with not too much
quantity. What a tasty introduction to Burmese gastronomy!
With the full belly we
continue our path to the Kandawgyi Lake
to go for a walk. It’s is very calm and quiet although the wooden floor where
people walk is in really bad conditions. This is a romantic place where the
youngsters come with his or her sweethearts to go for a walk under their
colourful umbrellas. Early in the morning in the green gardens of the lake a
lot of people come here to do sport and healthy exercises to start their day
full of energy.
Finally we go to the
unforgettable and world-famous Shwedagon
Pagoda. Its golden stupa is the heart of Buddhist Myanmar. It is believed
to be 2500 years old and the central stupa is surrounded by dozens of well
decorated buildings and statues. The first built Pagoda was 20 metres tall,
nowadays has been rebuilt 7 times over it. In addition, it contains thirteen
tons of gold.
It is stunning and
inexplicable. Monks, nuns, child, old people, entirely families, young couples…
Lots and lots of pilgrims from all the country and surroundings come here to
pray and meditate in this beautiful temple. It is both relaxing and fascinating
to spend some time watching the world go by…
To conclude the day we
return to the city centre. Under an umbrella, due to the rain, we walk through
the crowded markets where people buy and sell their products. Some people is
cooking, others eating crab with vegetables, or buying fruits, another one is selling
his fried grasshoppers… It is all amazing.
The first visiting day
has gone. It impresses me the faith and belief people live their lives.
Thanking each moment of the day, given to his amazed Buddha, with their
serenity and calmness, meditation, tranquillity, prayer. Earth never ceases to
amaze me.
DAY 3 “We don’t believe in God because we believe in humanity”
After an early
breakfast we transfer to Yangon domestic airport for departure to Mandalay. We
fly for more or less an hour and a half and we touch down Mandalay.
At first
sight, Mandalay is a dusty city full of motorbikes rather than an special
Burmese zone. In its streets and roads is sometimes difficult to identify it
with the Far East or with the exotically tropical. However, throughout the
region you get an image increasingly far from what it had been one day.
Mandalay
still preserves fabulous corners where the visitor can recreate that legendary
atmosphere. This enchanted region, just like Bagan, is closely linked to a
Buddhist legend. You can savour many pagodas, striking churches, Indian temples
and notable mosques, the fascinating Ayeyarwady riverside and little-visited
monasteries.
Upon arrival to the
domestic airport we drive to the ancient capital Amarapura, the city of the
Immortality, located 11km in the south of Mandalay region. The straight streets,
or better said, the dirt paths from Mandalay are jammed of motorbikes whistling
everywhere. Mandalay was called “The city of the bicycles”, however, after
taking just one step inside the region you could guess that now is the city of
the motorbikes. By the arrival of the motors, people started to substitute
their bikes for a non-expensive ($350) motorbike. By contrast, in Yangon are
prohibited because its danger. 
Our guide explains us
that Mandalay is the poorest part of the country. That is because they can only
harvest once a year due to the lack of rain. By contrast, in the south of
Myanmar people live from the rubber extraction and in the north regions they
have gold and jade mines. Mandalay is an expert in handicrafts such as Longis,
ceramic and teak.
Just getting into the
car with the new chauffeur form Mandalay region, we go to a very special site.
We go to Mahagandayon monastery. Just
entering we see a long queue of all-ages monks each one holding his alms bowl.
There are waiting to receive some food that a family of the town has prepared
today for all the monks of the monastery.
While I am looking
fascinated to the ceremony, our kind guide comes to me with a marvellous
surprise. It is a young monk from the monastery. I am really moved. I have lots
of questions for him. With a peaceful smile he mouths a calm “Mingalaba”. He
starts explaining the Buddhists principles. “All we hear, all we eat, we see,
smell, think… Everything has to be mindful. We will achieve this by calming our
morality, being concentrate and with wisdom. When we got all of this we will
reach our final goal: PEACEFULNESS and LIBRATION.
I have sometimes listened that Buddhism doesn’t
believe in any God like Catholicism or Islam. Is it true? – I asked him
nervously.
No, we don’t. We don’t
believe in god because we believe in humanity. We believe that each human being
is precious and important, that all have the potential to develop into Buddha – a perfect human being.
Since I have been here in Myanmar, I have seen
every monk with the head shaved. What is the purpose of monks and nuns of it?
Normally we are very
concerned about our appearance, especially our head. Women consider a good
hairdo to be very important and men are quite concerned about going bald. Also
a shaved head symbolizes the idea of paying more attention to inward change to
outward appearance.
While we are talking different monks come
around us. However, they cannot interfere too much in the conversation because
his English is not good enough. What is meditation? Do you meditate daily? What
about your routine?
Meditation is a
conscious effort to change how the mind works. The Pali word for meditation is bhavana which means ‘to make grow’ or
‘to develop’.
Yes, we do. Our life
is very simple. We get up at 3:30 am and we clean ourselves. At 4 am we
meditate till 5 am, the main key for meditation is the concentration: focusing
your mind in the air you inspire and expire. After the meditation we have
breakfast and go for our food in the town, in our case, the donating family comes
into the monastery. At 10 o’clock more or less we eat our food. We won’t eat no
more till the next day in the morning.
That is amazing. So, do the monks live here,
don’t they?
Yes, we eat, study,
pray, meditate and sleep here altogether. In this monastery we are a totally of
1112 monks of all ages.
That’s reasonable; I am surrounded of community
houses were they live in groups of twenty.
And what do you learn here?
Our learning schedule
consists of three main subjects: discipline, discourses and philosophy of the
Buddhism. To understand the Sanskrit we have to learn Palhi language, and then
you will be able to memorize the sacred Sanskrit.
While doing these
subjects we can reach different levels: the first one is the base level, if you
get it you can achieve the intermediate level and the final and top one is the
teachership. If you get it you can leave the monastic life or stay on it.
Do you have any dream? What do you want to be
when you grow up?
Personally, I want to
be a teacher of the Buddha. I want to share my knowledge to the young kids in
the monastery as a loyal monk.
That is all amazing. I admire your lives, your
culture and your way of thinking. Thank you very much for answering my
questions and sharing this time with me.
It has been an incredible
experience, like a dream come true. His voice transmitted me confidence, peace
and wellbeing. He has a calm mind; he behaves quietly, correctly and
peacefully: by this way, he can face all the obstacles in his life. All his pure words and glances were different
form the ones that I am used to see. He doesn’t have a big house or a lot of money;
he neither is the General Director of a Multinational enterprise and he neither
has three million dollars in his budget. However, he is incredibly happy. Probably
more than the ones who have all that.
Everything was
absolutely breath-taking. As a way to thank the monk who helped me with my
project, we buy them a Buddhist book called “Good Question, Good Answer”. I
have to say it has been very useful to fulfil lacks of knowledge about the
religion and way of thinking. He is very dedicated. I gives me his e-mail
address to solve me any doubts, he even ask me mine in case of malfunction. I
am very pleased, sometimes is difficult to find such good people.
As Amarapura is famous
for its fine textiles, our tour guide shows us a little local shop where many women sew with the most delicate and
nice silk from the south of the country. They sew silk tissues and clothes for
weddings, when one of the women finishes the dress she gets 50$. As more as
they produce, they earn more money. They also produce Longi, in fact, it is the
main manufacture of the country. The way of working shocks me. They work hours
and hours every day, in addition, they work in quite bad conditions. They
barely don’t have light, not enough to see that tiny and delicate yarns. Inside
the workshop is extremely hot, as well as, they are sitting in the floor during
their long working day. I am quite upset. We are living in the paradise.
Our loyal and prudent
driver takes us to the Ayeyarwaddy river side. We embark to a little boat that
crosses continually the wide river. We arrive to Ava (Innwa), located on an
island between the Ayeyarwaddy and the Myit Nge rivers. Ava had been the ancient
imperial capital of successive Burmese kingdoms from the 14th to 19th
centuries. It was finally abandoned after a terrible earthquake in March 1839. Just
setting food on land, we come up into a chariot. Our guide tells us is the best
way to see the authenticate life of the destroyed island. We see the schools,
the rudimentary “houses”, the ancients taking care of the young ones, man feeding
the cows and kids playing in the school and we also meet antique temples form
the XVIII century. We arrive at a nice teak monastery called Maha Aungmye Bonzan Kyaung also known
as Me Nu Oke Kyaung. We have the special opportunity to witness a lesson of a
small class of novice monks. The oldest novice is teaching the youngest ones.
One is studying Burmese language, another is learning English and some of them
are memorizing the Sanskrit. We give them a pencil case full of pens and school
materials we have brought from home. They do not express to much the emotions;
however, I know they are pleased. Their smiles illustrate it.
We have lunch in a
local restaurant from Ava, in fact, the only one. The food was quite good and
was a totally touristic restaurant.
After that, we go to Bagaya Kyaung, an impressive wooden
monastery entirely built of teak and supported by 267 teak posts. We find
groups of teenagers who shiny ask us to take a photo together. They are amazed
to see occidentals. One of the girls is so excited that she buys us a jade
bracelet. What appreciative people. Concerning, I accepted her present. I was
deeply grateful. Her present will be a very special memory.
To sum up the day, we
enjoy the sun set time at U-Bein Bridge
over one kilometre entirely made of the teak of the antique dynasty palace.
Piteously, the sky is full of grey clouds which will avoid seeing the so famous
sunset over the Taungthaman Lake. It is the most common weather at this time of
the year so it is not the best time to enjoy the fabulous sunset. In addition, is also better when the lake is
lower so you can see the teak columns that sustain the long bridge. Our guide
tells us the best time to come here, and in fact, to visit all the country is
from December to February. Another recommendation is to stay in one of the
river side bars and don’t watch the spectacle over a boat, the vision from the
river side is better. 
DAY 4 "I want to be a good nun"
We have a delicious
and complete breakfast at Mandalay Hill Resort and later on we drive till the
Ayeyarwaddy river side again. Today we are taking a private boat, this time
bigger, and sail to Mingun. Ayeyarwaddy
River is a very important and the main one because it goes from the north to
the south of the country. It courses more than 2000 kilometres. It is also
called the Elephant’s River, that is because it is surrounded of forests where
the elephants work with the teak wood plantations.
When the water level
drops, as it brings many minerals, locals cultivate rice fields in the
riverside. They also use the minerals to make tar and in the northern part of
the country they plant sugar canes.
Our guide explains us
that in the north there is a curious animal living in the river. There are
dolphins that help the fisherman to find the preys. It surprises me, dolphins in the river? I
never stop to discover new things. During the passage we see the busy river
activity, different aquatic villages and the local life.
After 45 minutes of
sailing we arrive at Mingun and we visit firstly the Settawya Pagoda, built by King Bodawpaya in 1811. Buddhists believe
that it contains a footprint of the lord Buddha. Afterwards, we go to Mingun Pagoda, whose construction was
also commissioned by King Bodawpaya in 1790, but on going stopped when a
fortune teller predicted that when he finishes the Pagoda he will die. As
people in Myanmar have always been very superstitious, the King ordered to stop
the construction. The Pagoda it is still unfinished. It has 150 stairs and 56
meters high, the first intentions were to build up a 200 meters monument. 
Unfortunately, in 1838 and 1975 two important
earthquakes destroyed and cracked the religious temple. For this reason is
quite difficult to climb it. Some young locals have drawn on it and they help
tourist to climb up the unfinished Pagoda. Then they expect some money or a
little tip for it (2000kt more or less). The views from the top are nice, you
can see the entire Mingun region full of Pagodas and little villages surrounded
of green.
We also visit the building;
just in front of the Mingun Pagoda, where the second biggest worldwide bell is (the biggest one is in Russia). It
weights two tones. People go inside of the bell, curiously, I do it too.
We have finished our
planned visits for this morning, however, our appreciate guide, to make up time,
takes us for a walk in the less touristic sites of the village. We are very
lucky; we find a novice’s school for
young nuns and monks. I have the great opportunity to talk with a group of
nuns who are sitting in their class. The kind teacher come to me and explains
me the way of working of most monasteries in the country, while the little
girls are listening and watching us wide-eyed.
Lots of families in
Myanmar take their children to monasteries because is the best way of learning
the both religion and other subjects. The old monks and nuns teach the youngest
ones. We teach them maths, English, Burmese language, history and geography… I
asked her what about gymnastics, arts and craft and music. She answers me that
they don’t do it. The little girls show me their books, the vocabulary English
lists, the mathematics exercises… I realise that the way of learning and the
books formats are like the ones in my country forty years ago. They neither
work in group, all the learning in absolutely individual. And no longer talk
about the classroom conditions nor the informatics availability. The nun
explains me that they learn 4 hours in the afternoon, the rest of the hours
they meditate and pray. It is amazing, but at the same time, an extremely
backward functioning.
What would you like to
be when you grow up? – I asked to a little nun who was looking me with a
playful gaze. “I want to be a good nun” – she answers me.
Every time I am more delighted
of this people, of their goodness and benignity.
We continue our walk
to a white temple which tourist do not achieve. The striking part of the visit
it is not the temple. This time is the visit to a tiny cottage next to the temple. Five monks live there peacefully.
They are having lunch; they are eating the food that few hours ago have
received from the families of the villages. It is 11 am, they will not eat no
more till tomorrow at breakfast time. Just arriving they happily ask to sit
with them. They bring us the popular tea salad, made of dried tea leaves with
ginger, peanuts and fried beans. And obviously, accompanied with a cup of green
tea. It is delicious.
As a way of thanking
them, the guide and us give them some money. –Be careful- The guide warns us. –
The monks and nuns usually accept the money given; however, they cannot touch
it directly. People make the offerings involving the money with a paper. The
monk who touches directly the money is considered a bad one -. After offering
it, the monk prays to thank us, he blesses, wishes health, love, peace and
happiness to all of us.
It has been a very
special moment. They transmit honesty and tranquillity. They are very magic.
This visit cannot be paid with money. It has been dazzling.
We come back to
Mandalay with the same boat. We get out of the car in several small villages
where the locals live from the handicraft of marble and wood figures. They
really are artists. I do not thing that the most of the people from my country
could have the patience to do it, and much less with the bad laboral conditions
they are working with. They elaborate little Buddha figures, bigger ones, wood
marks…
Later on, we go to the
Mahamuni Pagoda. In this pagoda
lives the most revered Buddha image. Buddhists think that the Buddha is alive. There
are lots and lots of pilgrims who come here to pray in front of the golden
Buddha. Before the altar there are many stalls where people sell little Buddha figures,
Longis, bracelets, offering plates…Only men can go upstairs to the high altar
and cover the body of the big Buddha with some gold leaf that you can buy in
the entrance of the Pagoda. I wonder why this kind of chauvinist restriction to
women. Are we different? Our attentive guide answers me: I agree with you,
however is a religion tradition coming from India. Lots of the customs of
Burmese Buddhism come from our neighbouring country India. Hindus sometimes
sideline a woman, that is why for example in this case women cannot ride up the
altar.
Afterwards, we go in a
golden leaf workshop. A group of young teenagers are beaten tiny pieces of gold
that will become into the gold leaves. It is fascinating.
By finishing the
morning route, we go to have lunch in a actually recommendable restaurant. It
is Unique Myanmar Restaurant. The food is delicious, it is very clean
and the attention is excellent. I specially recommend “aubergine with fried
shrimps” which costs only 3000 kt, 2’5$. As most of the restaurants, is it very
cheap. We have paid just 17$ for 5 persons.
After eating, we go to
one of the ancient palaces of the last dynastic King Mindon called Shwenandaw Monastery. On its origins,
the palaces were covered of gold both within and outside; however, on these
days the golden colour is just in the outsides of the palaces. Nowadays, there
are very few of them because of the destructions of the Second World War when
most of them were burnt.
We continue our route
to Kuthoday Pagoda, frequently
called ‘world’s largest book’, a collection of 729 white-washed small stupas
housing the Buddhist Scriptures inscribed on marbles slabs. Our guide tells us
it is told that if every day you write during five ho
We say bye to the day by going to the top of the famous Mandalay Hill, a site with several glass-adorned temples at the north side of the city. Some people walk up to the hill, others, like us, go up by car. I think is better because to reach the temple there are steep slopes.
While waiting the
sunset, we listen to the quiet voice of the 24-hour-praying monks heard above
the entire Mandalay city. Whereas we are walking around the temple, a pair of
monks smiles us eager to talk. They explain us they are doing High School at
the moment, what they call their second life. One of them excitingly tells us
he wants to be a teacher when he grows up. The other one says: “I want to
travel around the world; I want to meet people and learn from the other
cultures and religions”. They are continuously asking for our culture, our
customs, our way of living… They want to learn from others.
My mother and I are
astonished of all the words they are saying. The goodness of these two boys is
incredible. We come back with our family and the guide tells us that the monks
usually come here to meet tourist, to learn from them and practice English.
Finally is time for the
sunset, we enjoy the magnificent views from the top of the magic hill between
these nice people.
DAY 5: “Education is the most powerful weapon which you can use to change the
world”.
A new adventure is waiting us. I am so excited
for today. What will we smell? What will we listen? What will we see? I don’t
know, however, I prefer that way. Every day is a surprise; every day is a good day.
After visiting
Mandalay which I would say it is the cultural capital of the country, we drive
to Sagaing to arrive at Monywa.
On the way, we stop in
a school. A special school which has been one of the best memories I have took
from the trip. It was everything absolutely outstanding. This is school is located
in the region of Sagaing. This is Aung Myae Oo what means ‘The place of
victory’. It is a free monastic school. This school was established by Venerable Vilasa, a Burmese monk, in 2003.
I have the unpayable
opportunity to receive first-hand information and feelings of the centre. Just
arriving I hear a voice saying ‘The sky is blue’, and a group of sweet voices
repeating ‘The sky is blue’. I sneak into the classroom. A teacher and twenty novice
pupils approximately are learning English. As they realize I am there they
welcome me with a big smile and with a lovely ‘Minagalaba!’ -You can ask what
you want- The guide tells me.
-
Good morning, my name is Marina and I am from
Barcelona. Do you know it?
‘Barça!’ I hear between the
voices. It is incredible that
in each remote side of the world, most of people know Barça.
I would like to learn something
about the school. How and when it was established, courses taught here,
educational aims, school major expenses, functioning of the teachers… Would you
mind to explain me it a little bite? – I ask to the teacher who approaches to
me.
Of course! In the beginning years, Venerable Vilasa, Venerable Jagara
and Venerable Sobhana were the only teachers who made their best effort to give
children primary education. Later the school was officially recognised in 2003.
We teach primary, secondary and high school at school. We also regularly
offer different courses such as: computer courses, English courses and Buddhist
cultural courses.
Barely all the schools have been founded with donating founds. Since now
when there is the democrat party, the military government haven’t given any
money to build schools. I suppose that it is easier to manage an illiterate
population. This one was one of the main goals of the founders when they built
the school; to bring up many children who couldn’t grow as humans, who couldn’t
learn. In addition, there were and there are lots of families that do not have
enough money to pay the school quote neither to bring up them. Our school is
completely free. Some local children, children from the villages and from
remote areas are accommodated at school and their basic needs are supported by
the school.
Nowadays, our main purpose is not only to give children modern education
but also to train them in moral education. To implant sense of responsibility
for the nation, culture and religion into the mind of younger generation.
I am completely agreed with you
about the intentions of the antique military government. The illiteracy is the
key to dictate your people. I really admire your goals. As Mandela said once
“Education is the most powerful weapon which you can use to change the world”.
And
what about the school expenses? Who covers them?
The school major expenses are: the teacher’s salaries, electric bill,
furniture and teaching aids, food, clothing and others for residential students
and medical care for the teachers and for the students.
The school is totally based on Donation and your generous donations are
important for the survival of the school.
Sure. That is the main problem in most of the schools in Myanmar. There
are many kids. In fact, each family in the villages usually has from 4 to 6 children;
meanwhile, there are not enough teachers and the few that there are, most of us
are ill-prepared to teach.
Our school also has a huge problem in this aspect. The number of
children has increased importantly since 2003 when there were 31 students with
6 teachers, while nowadays there are 2556 with only 68 teachers.
Wow! That is unbearable! In my
school there is a staff of 50 teachers with 400 students learning.
Sure, it is actually a huge problem for us. The classes are normally of
60 or 70 students. It is impossible to teach properly, although you are good on
it.
Thank you very much for giving me
this information. I am really much obliged to you.
I also have the great
opportunity to talk to a 19-year-old boy who is one of the voluntary geography
and history teachers of the school. ‘I love teaching them. It actually fills
me’.
While walking around
the school and the classrooms, I meet an Italian woman who has taught in the Monastic
School during two weeks as a volunteer. “I was on holiday. Two weeks ago I come
here to visit the school as a tourist. It was everything impacting for me. At
the end of the day I came back to the hotel where I was staying. I couldn’t
sleep, I was continually thinking in the school situation, in what I have seen
hours ago. I felt that the best I could do was staying in the school to share
as knowledge as I could instead of continuing my trip. And that is what I did.
Today is my last day, and today I can only say that it has been the best
experience of my life”.
It blew me away. If it
was for me and for my human impulses, after seeing all this and after listening
this first-hand experience, I would also stay here. I am astonished. A new
dream has risen into my mind. I hope I can fulfil it sometime.
We continue our trip and
we arrive to the picturesque Sagaing
Hill. A temple built during the XVII century where you can find forty-five
images from the life of Buddha, from his birth till his death with eighty years
old. From the top of the temple you see a fantastic view of the green area full
of white stupas.
The next stop is in Pon Ña Shin Pagoda where many people
make offerings like most of the temples. People bring cooked food, colourful
flowers, water and all kind of fruits. When the food is about to rot, the
poorest people of the village come here and get some food. This temple is not
very touristic, however, it is beautiful and I really recommend it.
Going on the way, we
stop in Kaung Mhu Daw Pagoda. Apart
from the religious part of the temple, it is one of the best places to experience
the famous Thanaka.
In one of the stalls
around the temple, a woman applies make up to our faces with a fantastic leaves
design. It is amazing. Thanaka is a popular Burmese costume which is unique in
the world.
After having lunch and
after a two-hour car route, we get to Monywa. During the military times, Monywa
was one of the main cities of the country because it as the most important merchandises
connection with India. Nowadays there is still many traffic and motorbikes
around the streets.
Finally, we get to Win Unity Resort hotel, which is the
most recommended hotel in Monywa since the other ones are quite bad because of
the lack of tourists in the area. I mostly recommend it for the fantastic views
of a quiet lake in front of the bedrooms and the commodity of the rooms. The
main advantage is that the prices are quite good. It costs 40$ per night.
They contain Budha images and beautifully preserved murals
dating from the XIV-XVI centuries.
During our visiting tour in the caves we can enjoy a fantastic acrobatic show. Little monkeys jump from one tree to another, from one cave to the other one… They are funny! However, they are ‘see but not touch’, when you come closer to them; they can be aggressive as a defensive strategy.
Afterwards, we come
back through the green forests and fields. I absolutely recommend the visit
basically for the landscapes you see during the route. The greenery woodlands
and vegetation is spectacular. You see the typical white cows plowing the
fields, a family planting cultivation, others harvesting. It is truly
authenticate. Palm trees which they draw the sap from, lentils fields, tomatoes
and another amount of several trees. We follow paths where we continually find
signs of life from the habitants. On the way, we find the mother, the auntie, the
daughters and the cousins of a family who are shattering the sesame plants to
sell the seed in the market of the village.
Thanks to the guide we
can go and meet them. “They probably have ever seen tourist, so they are very
excited”- Tell us the guide. These women are very kind and jolly. They don’t
stop saying “Chau de! Chau de!” What it means ‘beautiful’. They are a little
shine, however, they want to take lots of photos with us. We give them soups,
shampoos, combs, sewing kits, toothbrushes, bath gels and others from the
hotels. Sometimes hearts me when we go to the hotel and I see those amounts of
supplies in the rooms while most of the people from here did not even know what
it is. We cannot understand them, even though; we are amply satisfied with
their sweet smiles. 
We continue the route
and we stop at Ma-U-Le village where we take a leisurely walk and we discover
the main activity of most of their villagers: the making of incense sticks. The villagers actually only
manufacture the plain incense sticks. Then, those are sent to Ye Sa Kyo town
for “scenting”.
We leave Bagan and we
drive south-east for a little over 45 kilometres to reach Mount Popa. On the way,
after passing Nyaung-U, we stop in an interesting place at “Paing”, a roadside
shop. Here a family manufactures natural sweets. They show us from the
beginning to the end of the sweets producing process.
The sons of the family
climb up the high palm trees to get the sap, the grandfather with his bullock chopping
peanuts paste to get oil which is the type of oil mainly used in Myanmar, the
women boiling and shaping the sweets popularly known as ‘jaggery’ and the other
members patiently making a liquor from the sab of the palm trees which is used
both for medical remedies or for drinking.
As we get into the
shop they bring us a plate of tea salad and some tea. After discovering the
process we give them four pairs of sandals and we buy them some elaborated
products. 
We drive to Mount
Popa. Along the path we go to a remote school around the forests next to a
monastery. “People here are very poor” – tell us the school founder monk from
the monastery. “When I was young, I and a friend of mine started recollecting
donations to found a monastic school. We achieve it. We are still recollecting
founds to pay the salaries of the teachers, keeping the school, for school
material and maintaining the poorest children”. Another monk add to the
conversation: “Children love coming to school. Years ago people from the
villages did not know anything, they did not either have a good harvest in the
fields. They did not have basically anything to survive. With the school
knowledge it will probably be easier to get ahead. The education is the key of
success”.
“That is true”- I think while listening carefully. We say goodbye after talking to a happy teachers from the school and give them a pencil case with pens and some material for the school.
Finally we arrive to Mount Popa, which after visiting it I
absolutely do no recommend it. The views from the top are quite good; however, the
stairs to achieve it are very filthy. The main problem is that, as all the
other temples, you must walk barefoot. Although today is rainy and humid and it
is easier to get dirty and muddy, the stairs are full of bugs, monkey faeces
and sickening smells. It has been a disgusting experience. Our tour guide tells
us that she usually do not go with his tourists because he do not recommend it
neither, however, our visit was programmed yet! I do not suggest Mount Popa to
visit but I would completely repeat the driving trip to get to it. 
We come back to Bagan
and we stop in one of the 2000 temples of Danazaka called Dhammayangyi, a massive-looking temple dating from 1170 which is
famous for its interlocking mortar less brickwork. From there you can take one
of the most popular taken photos in Myanmar. At the top of the temple peace,
tranquillity and silence is breathed. It is as if the time had stopped. 
We continue our route.
A two-horse chariot is waiting us to ride around the antique clay temples. Many
of them were destroyed by a devastating earthquake, that is why lots of them
are rebuilt with new bricks. UNESCO is hesitating about considering it heritage
of humanity or not. They do not like the fact of the rebuilt ones. From my
point of view, the beauty and charm of these temples transcend the newest parts
of the landscape. 
To conclude the day,
we arrive to Pyatha Pagoda, another
fantastic terrace, which is the largest one, to enjoy the landscape and the
sunset.
We land in Heho. The main ethnicities here are the
Shan, who are very similar to the Thais, also the Pa-O, Palaung and Danu ethnic
groups. The region is situated approximately 850 metres at sea level, I suppose
it is why the temperature here is perfect because it is not hot but it is not
cold either. They are luckily available of a actually fertile land where they
cultivate wheat, garlics, cauliflowers, rice, sunflowers, potatoes, tomatoes…
And many other vegetables. Unlike the
southern regions of the country, they use buffalos to plow the fields instead
of the thin white Indian cows. The buffalos could not life in such hot weather
as the south one.
Road to Kalaw, we stop
in a neatly ordered and tidily market in one of the roadside villages. People
in the stalls sell tofu, glutinous rice, delicious home-elaborated chips, green
tea leaves and fruits mostly mandarins. It is said that people here never get
cold because they eat many delicious mandarins which they cultivate on a large
scale in their fields.
We continue our route
to a curious cave full of small Buddha statues placed by the pilgrims in the
rocky walls. This spiritual prayer centre is called Shwe Oo Min Paya.
We also visit a local temple called Nee Paya Pagoda where there is a bamboo
Buddha statue covered of gold leaf. Just entering, a monk brings us a tea salad
and some delicious tea. We sit down on the floor of the temple and let the time
passes by. We listen to the prayers of the pilgrims thanking for what they have
and begging for what they will have, we smell the elegant scents of the temple
and we look at the magnificent golden Buddha. “Buddhist figures seem more sympathetic
than the ones from the religion from my country” – I think while looking
carefully at the big Buddha figure. 
We check in at Royal Kalaw Hill Resort and we complete
our day by observing the different ethnic groups in their daily activities and
in their own village environments in Kalaw.
I personally do not
recommend Royal kalaw Hill Resort, although
it is one of the top hotels in Kalaw. Its surroundings are fantastic, in fact,
as all the hotels in the area because of the greenery landscapes of Kalaw.
However, there are not any distractions apart from going to the nearest small
village. In addition, the food in the restaurant is not varied and is not very
tasty.
DAY 6: sweet smiles
Today is time to meet
the most historic part of the trip. To begin, we cross the Chindwin River and
continue westwards to Hpo Win Taung
Caves. We visit the peculiar series of
caves in the hillside along a meandering path.
During our visiting tour in the caves we can enjoy a fantastic acrobatic show. Little monkeys jump from one tree to another, from one cave to the other one… They are funny! However, they are ‘see but not touch’, when you come closer to them; they can be aggressive as a defensive strategy.
Afterwards, we come
back through the green forests and fields. I absolutely recommend the visit
basically for the landscapes you see during the route. The greenery woodlands
and vegetation is spectacular. You see the typical white cows plowing the
fields, a family planting cultivation, others harvesting. It is truly
authenticate. Palm trees which they draw the sap from, lentils fields, tomatoes
and another amount of several trees. We follow paths where we continually find
signs of life from the habitants. On the way, we find the mother, the auntie, the
daughters and the cousins of a family who are shattering the sesame plants to
sell the seed in the market of the village.
Thanks to the guide we
can go and meet them. “They probably have ever seen tourist, so they are very
excited”- Tell us the guide. These women are very kind and jolly. They don’t
stop saying “Chau de! Chau de!” What it means ‘beautiful’. They are a little
shine, however, they want to take lots of photos with us. We give them soups,
shampoos, combs, sewing kits, toothbrushes, bath gels and others from the
hotels. Sometimes hearts me when we go to the hotel and I see those amounts of
supplies in the rooms while most of the people from here did not even know what
it is. We cannot understand them, even though; we are amply satisfied with
their sweet smiles. 
We continue the route
and we stop at Ma-U-Le village where we take a leisurely walk and we discover
the main activity of most of their villagers: the making of incense sticks. The villagers actually only
manufacture the plain incense sticks. Then, those are sent to Ye Sa Kyo town
for “scenting”.
Finally we arrive to Pakokku where a group of women help us
to carry our luggage to the boat which will bring us to Bagan. This is the way
how these women earn some money. They also ask for soup and perfume and we give
them a little bag with some hygienic products and perfumes. We sail down to
Bagan. Although there is also the possibility to get there with car, which the
duration of the trip is shorter, we have decided to go by boat to see a
different and unknown landscape. In this way, we get to know several hidden
corners of the magic country.
Finally, we arrive to Bagan and we transfer to Tharabar Gate Hotel. The hotel offers a
colonial-era teak stylised rooms. It has got a precious garden, a pool and an
elegant restaurant to eat. The double
room price is about 160$.
Room 2H, 1st Floor, Nawarat Condo,
Sa Mon Street, 22/24, Pyay East Qtr, Dagon Township, Yangon, Myanmar.
Tel: (+95-1) 377956 / 376568,
Sa Mon Street, 22/24, Pyay East Qtr, Dagon Township, Yangon, Myanmar.
Tel: (+95-1) 377956 / 376568,
DAY 7: “As if the
time had stopped”
After an especially delicious
breakfast in Tharabar Gate we start our trip in Bagan, located on the banks of
the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River, is home to the largest and densest
concentration of Buddhist temples, pagodas, stupas and ruins in the world with
many dating from the 11th and 12th centuries. It has got above 2000
stupas in its 16km2.
Piteously, Bagan is a dry region.
Villagers go far away with their white thin cows and their chariot to look for
water. At certain times of the year they live actually poorly. For this reason
and by contrast from the other regions of the country, it is recommended to
visit Bagan during the European summer season. This is because it is the region’s
greenest time of the year due to of the more frequently rain.
We leave Bagan and we
drive south-east for a little over 45 kilometres to reach Mount Popa. On the way,
after passing Nyaung-U, we stop in an interesting place at “Paing”, a roadside
shop. Here a family manufactures natural sweets. They show us from the
beginning to the end of the sweets producing process. 
The sons of the family
climb up the high palm trees to get the sap, the grandfather with his bullock chopping
peanuts paste to get oil which is the type of oil mainly used in Myanmar, the
women boiling and shaping the sweets popularly known as ‘jaggery’ and the other
members patiently making a liquor from the sab of the palm trees which is used
both for medical remedies or for drinking.
As we get into the
shop they bring us a plate of tea salad and some tea. After discovering the
process we give them four pairs of sandals and we buy them some elaborated
products. 
We drive to Mount
Popa. Along the path we go to a remote school around the forests next to a
monastery. “People here are very poor” – tell us the school founder monk from
the monastery. “When I was young, I and a friend of mine started recollecting
donations to found a monastic school. We achieve it. We are still recollecting
founds to pay the salaries of the teachers, keeping the school, for school
material and maintaining the poorest children”. Another monk add to the
conversation: “Children love coming to school. Years ago people from the
villages did not know anything, they did not either have a good harvest in the
fields. They did not have basically anything to survive. With the school
knowledge it will probably be easier to get ahead. The education is the key of
success”.“That is true”- I think while listening carefully. We say goodbye after talking to a happy teachers from the school and give them a pencil case with pens and some material for the school.
Finally we arrive to Mount Popa, which after visiting it I
absolutely do no recommend it. The views from the top are quite good; however, the
stairs to achieve it are very filthy. The main problem is that, as all the
other temples, you must walk barefoot. Although today is rainy and humid and it
is easier to get dirty and muddy, the stairs are full of bugs, monkey faeces
and sickening smells. It has been a disgusting experience. Our tour guide tells
us that she usually do not go with his tourists because he do not recommend it
neither, however, our visit was programmed yet! I do not suggest Mount Popa to
visit but I would completely repeat the driving trip to get to it. 
We come back to Bagan
and we stop in one of the 2000 temples of Danazaka called Dhammayangyi, a massive-looking temple dating from 1170 which is
famous for its interlocking mortar less brickwork. From there you can take one
of the most popular taken photos in Myanmar. At the top of the temple peace,
tranquillity and silence is breathed. It is as if the time had stopped.
During the most
touristic months, the sky is full of air balloons that the tourists hire to see
the temples from a birds-eye perspective. However, from our guide point of
view, it is better to see it from one of the temples as us.
We continue our route.
A two-horse chariot is waiting us to ride around the antique clay temples. Many
of them were destroyed by a devastating earthquake, that is why lots of them
are rebuilt with new bricks. UNESCO is hesitating about considering it heritage
of humanity or not. They do not like the fact of the rebuilt ones. From my
point of view, the beauty and charm of these temples transcend the newest parts
of the landscape. 
To conclude the day,
we arrive to Pyatha Pagoda, another
fantastic terrace, which is the largest one, to enjoy the landscape and the
sunset.
We come back to the
hotel to load energies for the next that which is waiting us!
DAY
8: “The
only alternative to coexistence is co-destruction.”
Today we get up early
morning to move to Bagan airport (Nyaung U) to take off to Heho and finally
arrive by car to Kalaw. Nyaung U airport is small and there are few flights,
five flights per day, which each flight do the same route:
Yangon-Mandalay-Bagan-Heho-Yangon.
We land in Heho. The main ethnicities here are the
Shan, who are very similar to the Thais, also the Pa-O, Palaung and Danu ethnic
groups. The region is situated approximately 850 metres at sea level, I suppose
it is why the temperature here is perfect because it is not hot but it is not
cold either. They are luckily available of a actually fertile land where they
cultivate wheat, garlics, cauliflowers, rice, sunflowers, potatoes, tomatoes…
And many other vegetables. Unlike the
southern regions of the country, they use buffalos to plow the fields instead
of the thin white Indian cows. The buffalos could not life in such hot weather
as the south one.
Road to Kalaw, we stop
in a neatly ordered and tidily market in one of the roadside villages. People
in the stalls sell tofu, glutinous rice, delicious home-elaborated chips, green
tea leaves and fruits mostly mandarins. It is said that people here never get
cold because they eat many delicious mandarins which they cultivate on a large
scale in their fields.
The area seems much
richer that the ones we have seen till now; well-built and big houses, gas
stations with very good facilities, ordered streets and a heavily agriculture
wealth. This is a place where during the pre-Second World War, British people,
who have conquered the land for many years, go there to their summer houses. To
these days, there are still British people from the third generation who live
here. This mixture of culture during so many years has resulted in a variety of
different religions. The most common ones are the Buddhism and the Catholicism.
For this reason, we
visit a catholic church in one of the villages. The building is absolutely
white. “People from Myanmar love white. That is because they would like to have
a lighter and fairish skin. For this reason, many temples or churches, houses,
also their clothing is often white” – Explain us the guide. “Here people
respect each other. Whatever religion you may be, regardless of your faith;
they cohabitate together with harmony and friendship” – He goes on to say. I
envy them, I envy them very much. I think about Europe, about my country. Where
is our respect? Where is the respect between religions in the West? Is that we
are not able to coexist with other cultures? It is normal that in the 21st
century and in the top worldwide countries happens what is happening? Where is
the development? Terrorist attacks, hate, jihadism, weapons, extermination and
wars… They are the most common words heard in the European press. I cannot
understand how some people are capable to kill innocents just for a cruel
belief. I just want to mention the fabulous quote of de Indian politician
Jawaharlal Nehru: “The only alternative to coexistence is co-destruction.” It
completely reflects the way of living from the Burmese people.
We also visit a local temple called Nee Paya Pagoda where there is a bamboo
Buddha statue covered of gold leaf. Just entering, a monk brings us a tea salad
and some delicious tea. We sit down on the floor of the temple and let the time
passes by. We listen to the prayers of the pilgrims thanking for what they have
and begging for what they will have, we smell the elegant scents of the temple
and we look at the magnificent golden Buddha. “Buddhist figures seem more sympathetic
than the ones from the religion from my country” – I think while looking
carefully at the big Buddha figure. 
DAY 9: green valleys
We begin the day with full energy and eagerly
to discover a new adventure. After a breakfast in Royal Kalaw Hill, so weak
compared to the rest, we start our trekking
accompanied of our loyal guide and another one who knows properly the area. He
will show us the green mountains of Kalaw.
In Kalaw there are lots and lots of trekking
guides due to the huge number of tourists.
We leave at 7:30 am
from the hotel and we go ahead the beautiful mountains that are surrounding us.
The route will be about 6 hours.
We walk around the
forests and the vegetation of Kalaw Mountains. It is not a hard route.
Today is the Moon Day,
Burmese people every month celebrate de Moon Day. They do not work. Villagers
pray in the temples, women in one place and men in another one.
Today men have
to cook the lunch altogether to feed all the inhabitants. The elderly sing and
children play and run happily in the fields of the town.
We get to a little
cottage where an old woman receives us with a sweet smile around her
grandchildren. She gives us a cup of delicious green tea. They eagerly want to
clothe us with their typical dresses and jewelleries from their ethnicity
Palaung.
They clothe me with a
colourful Longhi, a glossy cardigan, a hat with coloured ribbons belts,
necklaces, jewellery… They look at me excited; they want to take photos
together. I suppose they are not accustomed to us.
We give them some materials
such as flip-flops and notebooks for the kids.
After that, we go to
the village centre and share pencils, pens and school material to all the kids
who are playing over here. They practically fight to get something we give
them.
We continue our
verdant tour. Our local guide shows us the main plants of the hills. Ginger,
green tea, coffee, chilli, mandarin trees, bread-fruit trees, mango trees,
bannanas… These plants cover the landscape and they are cultivated by the
locals from the little villages. 
We eat very well in this little bar-cottage. We enjoy the fabulous and tasty flavours of the fruits of the mountains. We eat mangos, dragon fruit, pineapple with salt, which extracts it flavour best, and many other fruits.
Rested, we continue
our route and we visit more villages, we also see buffalos in the muddy fields,
green valleys and plenty of animals that enjoy the freshness of Kalaw.
The ground is very
muddy and humid, that is why I recommend wearing proper footwear and to bring
an umbrella to protect yourself from the sun and/or rain.
After walking during
six hours, we arrive at 3 pm in the hotel. I am earning to have a rest!
Kalaw visiting days
have been very well, however, I recommend trying to visit the small market from
Kalaw town and do the trekking in the same day. That way you would only have to
sleep a night in Kalaw and you could also see everything unless you come here
to do a sportive and trekking trip so Kalaw is the perfect site to hike.
DAY
10: “plant
a little grand of sand”
We get up early in the
morning and leave to Inle Lake. The route is about 2 hours and a half long.
On
the way, we stop in a school were kids are playing happily during the break. We
speak to the teachers and the snootiest girls want us to take photos to them.
Next
to the school, we find a family with two small girls who is “having a shower”
in the river. They do not have any kind of soup or bath gel. They only have the
murky water from the river. It strikes us.
We give them soups, combs,
toothbrushes and other things. As you can see, during our entire trip we have
shared different items we have brought day a day in our bags. There are lots of
things that people from here need very much, and we did not even value it. We
are just trying to plant a little grand of sand in it. 
Impacted, we continue
the route and the next stop is in a familiar workshop of mulberry tree
handicrafts. They manufacture precious Asiatic umbrellas with bamboo and
mulberry bark and flowers, they also elaborate lamps and bags. They are pretty!
Finally we get to Nyaung Shwe, the small town at the
entrance to Inle Lake. Over twenty
kilometres long and more than ten kilometres wide, at 875 above the sea level;
the calm waters of the lake contrast sharp with the surrounding high hills as a
backdrop. Apart from offering amateur photographers an exceptional chance to
take plenty of great shoots. The economic Inle Lake has over the years become
the vegetable and fruit garden for most of the country.
We finally check-in in
Pristine Lotus Spa Resort. It is an
absolutely fantastic, green, exceptional hotel, inside the Inle Lake hand, of
course, with a fantastic staff.
We just leave our
luggage and leave quickly to a little boat that is waiting us. It will bring us
around the lake during these two days. Just going into the enormous lake I feel
that it is a living lake, a lake full of feeling, sensations and senses. We
find the spectacular and famous fishermen of Inle Lake known as leg rowers. 
The Intha people row
standing up with one leg wrapped around an oar, thus they are able to free
their hands for fishing and tending to their gardens. They are able to row with
their feed while they look for their new pray. It is outstanding. One of them,
invite us to go into his wooden boat. He sails around the calm water. The
tranquillity breathed is incredible. I have no words to describe it.
We give him a bottle
of water which will be thankful under the hot sun. We keep sailing. Some
fisherman fishing, others removing the seaweeds to make bricks, others recollecting
water lilies to build their floating vegetable gardens… Everyone is busy but
calm, as usual, rests in the faces of the people.
We arrive to a
floating house where we find a very special family. It is a family of Giraffe women from the Kayan tribe.
They are wearing thousand-colour tissues. They smile while they keep sewing
patiently. Giraffe women are well known for wearing neck rings, brass
coils that are placed around the neck, appearing to lengthen it. Girls
first start to wear rings when they are around 5 years old. 
Over the years the
coil is replaced by a longer one and more turns are added. The weight of the
brass pushes the collar bone down and compresses the rib cage.
The neck itself is not lengthened; the appearance of a stretched neck is
created by the deformation of the clavicle. Originally, these women lived
in the forest and the Bangal tiger was expanded all above the country. Bengal
tiger usually bites on the neck, for this reason, Kyan women put these brass
rings in their necks. What an incredible visit!
We continue by boat to
visit Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda, the holiest
religious site in southern Shan State. Its five uniquely shaped, glided, but
relatively small Buddha images are carried around the lake by boat during the
annual Inle Boat Procession usually in the period September to October. The
well-decorated Pagoda is exceptional; it was built after the Second World War. Only man can go upstairs to the altar to cover
the figures with some gold leaves.
We have lunch at Golden Kite restaurant. It is an Italian restaurant where the
patience and dedication of the local staff and the Italian recipes elaborate
the best delicious plates. We also can enter to the kitchen to see how they
make themselves the pasta and pizza mass, how they cook the pizza in the wood
oven and how they cook with Inle Lake food.
It is delicious! It has made us want to lick our fingers!
While eating, our guide explains us that every
four years, on the transitional year, curiously, the water level raises. That is
why the cottages are elevated with strong trunks. During this period, some
hotels, restaurants, shops and others have to close due to the flooding.
He also tells us that in remote areas of Inle
lake affects the famous Golden triangle.
Today’s afternoon we go to the Intha teak boats manufacture. They
are hundred per cent handmade, it is an extremely hard work. When the group of
men finish a boat they get the money. They can get from 400$ to 1500$ depending
on the quality and size of the boat. Years ago they were cheaper because there
was no restriction in the teak trees logging.
Afterwards, we visit the Burmese cigars cottage manufacture. They elaborate it with leaves
from a tree planted in the north of the country. Our guide tells us the daily
salary of that women, I am speechless. They earn 3 miserable dollars per day
and they work 8 hours daily. If they want to get more money, they have to produce
more. My God! Are they human being or producing machines? That is pitiful…
We leave tips for these poor women. It is good
to distribute your money around the country with tips or little helps for
example buying local products. Their smile will compensate your action. I also
suggest not using very many governmental services as the money is not usually
invested to the population.
We sail back to rest
in the fantastic hotel.
We start a rainy day.
We get the small boat and sail under the rain to Taung Toe Kyaung pagoda. During the trip to Taung Toe we pass many
floating villages on the way. The landscape is very nice. We stop in the local weekly
market next to the Phaung Daw Oo temple.
At this market there are a lot of Pa-Oh
people who come from the mountains to sell their products. Pa-ho is the second
largest ethnic group in Shan State. The market is plenty of fruits, tofu,
banana, pharmaceutics’ stalls, Chinese products, oils, gas stations… As you can
see, it is a particular market.
It is time to go to a silk manufacture. The silk comes from
Mandalay were there are the worms which produce it. Many women of all ages are
sewing with the antique manual weavers and they stitch marvellous colourful
tissues. They also use lotus plant filaments to sew which they extract from the
stem. Some women invite us to sit down and we have a tea altogether. They
continually say: “La de! La de!” what means ‘nice’. They also tell us how much
they like our white tooth while they do not stop smiling. We give them a bag
with a toothbrush, perfumes, soaps, sweets and others and they feel very happy.
is why they have the same architectural style. In former days, the richest people built a stupa and that way they felt satisfied that they had done a good deed. Some people still do it. However, by the time, the stupas have been destroyed by the giant trees that have born between them. While walking between the stupa paradise we hear the ring of the golden bells of the top of the stupas. Each stupas has the name of the family who built it, “it would be a better deed to invest your money to the poorest areas, to build schools or feed the poorest” – I think while looking at the relics. “However, it is their customs, their religion and their way of thinking. Had it not been for the faith, Myanmar would not have most of the beauty it has got.
To finish the day, we
visit a lakeside and inland village.
We have a walk around the greenery rice fields. It seems that there is nobody,
that the time has stop, it seem that we are just the rain and us. However,
suddenly, under a bamboo roof, we find a group of women de-kernelling the rice.
They patiently and happily separate the rice and the herbs which they will use
to manufacture brooms. Some girls invite us to have a tea. How lovely they are!
The quiet village is
full of busy people who work silently and peacefully: an old woman who
de-kernels the rice, a family cleaning the barn, another one preparing the
sacks to sell in the local market, others cleaning the wooden boat… I admire
their way of living quietly…
As well as the Giraffe
women, Pa O people believe that their mother is the Dragon. She is wearing a
colourful turban which is typical from Pa O women; it represents the big heat
of the dragon. In addition, Pa O outfit consist on five pieces which symbolize
the Dragon scales. Their outfit is dark to show the equality between them.
ure styles. Annually, the tribes from Shan State celebrate the colourful Kakku Pagoda Festival in the moon day of Tabaung (March).
On the way to Heho
Airport, we stop in a nice, ordered and polished market in Nyaung Shwe. Afterwards, we visit Yandar Man Aung Pagoda, the oldest temple of Nyaungshwe. Finally, we
go to the last religious visit of our trip, we go to Shwe yan Pyay Monastery, made of teak wood. The monastery has an ordination hall (thein) with unique oval windows. This
thein was built by a Shan prince. Because of the photographic attraction of
young monks standing behind these oval windows of the monastery, this place has
become the regular stopping site for tourist buses. 
Lastly, we get to Heho
airport. In the airport San Yu tells us that our flight it is an hour late. One
sees that at this time of the year (July-August) this is usual because of the
thunderstorms. When going to Yangon we unexpectedly realise that our flight
firstly goes to Mandalay and then to Yangon. It is a loss of time; however, the
same companies change it at lasts. 
Clumsily, when were
about to catch the flight from Singapore to Barcelona we realise that our
flight was stopping in Milan. This one it was not by chance, ones sees that
Singapore Airlines has got direct flights or flights with several stops. The
one which we had bought stopped once. I recommend you to be aware when booking
it, you have to choose the flights carefully to not come it as a bad surprise.
Day 11: “A
trip to the past”
We start a rainy day.
We get the small boat and sail under the rain to Taung Toe Kyaung pagoda. During the trip to Taung Toe we pass many
floating villages on the way. The landscape is very nice. We stop in the local weekly
market next to the Phaung Daw Oo temple. 
At this market there are a lot of Pa-Oh
people who come from the mountains to sell their products. Pa-ho is the second
largest ethnic group in Shan State. The market is plenty of fruits, tofu,
banana, pharmaceutics’ stalls, Chinese products, oils, gas stations… As you can
see, it is a particular market.
We leave to a bronze and iron workshop where men convert
the cast iron into sharp knives which were formerly used by the soldiers. Three
boys are modelling the hot and red iron with three big picks. It is incredible
how fast they do it.
It is time to go to a silk manufacture. The silk comes from
Mandalay were there are the worms which produce it. Many women of all ages are
sewing with the antique manual weavers and they stitch marvellous colourful
tissues. They also use lotus plant filaments to sew which they extract from the
stem. Some women invite us to sit down and we have a tea altogether. They
continually say: “La de! La de!” what means ‘nice’. They also tell us how much
they like our white tooth while they do not stop smiling. We give them a bag
with a toothbrush, perfumes, soaps, sweets and others and they feel very happy.
The next visit is in
the Intha Heritage House. The
concept of this place is to preserve the Intha culture and traditions. It is
also home to a colourful collection of Burmese cats, unique in the world. It is
further combined with a small gallery with works of local artists, a small
library and a small restaurant which provides drinks and snacks. In my opinion,
if you are not a cat lover you may not visit it because the visit here is not
so interesting. You just see some cats inside a room and little else.
Under the rain, we go
to the little village Inn Den. After thirty minutes sailing we arrive to it. In
this amazing town there are more than 500 stupas between the green forests
built at the same time when Ankor from Cambodia was created (XIII century),
that
is why they have the same architectural style. In former days, the richest people built a stupa and that way they felt satisfied that they had done a good deed. Some people still do it. However, by the time, the stupas have been destroyed by the giant trees that have born between them. While walking between the stupa paradise we hear the ring of the golden bells of the top of the stupas. Each stupas has the name of the family who built it, “it would be a better deed to invest your money to the poorest areas, to build schools or feed the poorest” – I think while looking at the relics. “However, it is their customs, their religion and their way of thinking. Had it not been for the faith, Myanmar would not have most of the beauty it has got.
We continue the route
till a silver familiar manufacture.
They extract the silver from the mountains and later on, they make bracelets,
earrings and jewellery. The ones who we see and explain us their labour are
already the third generation of the family who elaborate the handicrafts. How
rudimentary and crude it is everything… The tools, the workshop, the fireplace
to heat the silver rocks… It is hat they show to the tourism but it is also
what they use to do their works! It is incredible! It makes me think of the
formerly blacksmith who forge the iron during hours and hours in front of the
fireplace to build small instruments to sell to the villagers. It is like a
trip to the past. We appear to have travelled back seventy years…
The uncle is heating
the rocks for separating the aluminium and other mixed minerals from the rock.
With the heat, most of them evaporate meanwhile the silver keeps intact. The
sons of the family shape the silver to elaborate necklaces, rings, bracelets,
earrings and many other things. Finally, the mother and the daughters of the
family sell the products in the shop.
To finish the day, we
visit a lakeside and inland village.
We have a walk around the greenery rice fields. It seems that there is nobody,
that the time has stop, it seem that we are just the rain and us. However,
suddenly, under a bamboo roof, we find a group of women de-kernelling the rice.
They patiently and happily separate the rice and the herbs which they will use
to manufacture brooms. Some girls invite us to have a tea. How lovely they are!
The quiet village is
full of busy people who work silently and peacefully: an old woman who
de-kernels the rice, a family cleaning the barn, another one preparing the
sacks to sell in the local market, others cleaning the wooden boat… I admire
their way of living quietly…
The lakeside villages
have a better life quality thanks to the good and rainy climate that lets them
to do two productive rice harvests per year and another one when they plant and
harvest garlics. They are well-fed and most of the country buys products from
the Inle Lake areas.
Today has been a rainy
but a completed day!
Day 12: “the hidden treasure”
Today’s route is to Kakku. We are 2:30 hours long from
there. On the way we stop to buy the entrances. All of a sudden, the guide
gives us a fabulous surprise: it is a nice girl from the Pa O ethnic group. She
will show us and explain us the today’s visit. Some girls from this ethnicity
wait for tourist to explain them the area and earn some money.
As well as the Giraffe
women, Pa O people believe that their mother is the Dragon. She is wearing a
colourful turban which is typical from Pa O women; it represents the big heat
of the dragon. In addition, Pa O outfit consist on five pieces which symbolize
the Dragon scales. Their outfit is dark to show the equality between them.
The dark size of this
tribe is the concept of the family. Men usually do not valuate their sons and daughters;
they usually abandon the family and is the mother who have to take care of her
children. It is the only place of the country that the separation is conducted.
In the Kakku area
there is many vegetation and several types of fruits and plants. However, the
principal one is the corn. This young girl brings us to Kakku Pagoda. The hidden treasure is located 41 kilometres far away
from Taunggyi, the Shan State capital city. It is a 2478 crumbling stupas
paradise in a bewildering variety of architect
ure styles. Annually, the tribes from Shan State celebrate the colourful Kakku Pagoda Festival in the moon day of Tabaung (March).
On the way back, we
stop in an ordered and one of the most ordered village we have seen. It is from
Pa O ethnicity. We go upstairs into a wooden cottage where is sewing an old
woman with a turban on his head. We speak to her thanks to the local guide;
even our loyal guide San Yu cannot understand her. Pa O tribe does not speak
Burmese, they speak Pa’o language.
We continue to Ayatha Township and stop at Aythaya
Vineyard, the first winery in Myanmar and German-managed. Mr. Hans Eduard
Laiendecker or one of his colleagues will introduce us to the art of wine
cultivation. We also have a fabulous lunch there in the vineyard restaurant
where you can find from Asiatic to American or European food. Nevertheless, I
do not recommend the visit because it is not so complete and interesting, you
just see the vineyards and that is all.
After that, we go to
the hotel to prepare our luggage for the return operation.
Day 13: “the magical journey”
I wake up, it has been
a dream? No, I still see boys with their Longis, I smell the scents of the
Nyang U local market, I still hear sweet ‘Miganalabas’ that wish me nice day…
The end is coming. It has come around in the blink of an eye. Sixteen days
around dreaming gazes, around peaceful smiles… Sixteen days, a time that has
flown very fast.
Today is the last day.
Today we leave the marvellous Inle Lake hotel and we start the path back home.
We drive to the Heho Airport to fly
back to Yangon. We will sleep at Yangon till tomorrow morning when we will get
the plane to take off to Singapore. And finally, from Singapore to Barcelona.
On the way to Heho
Airport, we stop in a nice, ordered and polished market in Nyaung Shwe. Afterwards, we visit Yandar Man Aung Pagoda, the oldest temple of Nyaungshwe. Finally, we
go to the last religious visit of our trip, we go to Shwe yan Pyay Monastery, made of teak wood. The monastery has an ordination hall (thein) with unique oval windows. This
thein was built by a Shan prince. Because of the photographic attraction of
young monks standing behind these oval windows of the monastery, this place has
become the regular stopping site for tourist buses. 
Lastly, we get to Heho
airport. In the airport San Yu tells us that our flight it is an hour late. One
sees that at this time of the year (July-August) this is usual because of the
thunderstorms. When going to Yangon we unexpectedly realise that our flight
firstly goes to Mandalay and then to Yangon. It is a loss of time; however, the
same companies change it at lasts. 
Clumsily, when were
about to catch the flight from Singapore to Barcelona we realise that our
flight was stopping in Milan. This one it was not by chance, ones sees that
Singapore Airlines has got direct flights or flights with several stops. The
one which we had bought stopped once. I recommend you to be aware when booking
it, you have to choose the flights carefully to not come it as a bad surprise.
Time in Myanmar is
frozen. It seems as nothing has changed during the last half century, as the
history had fossilized. A clock which nobody winds it up: this is what Myanmar
is. This is what makes the country a virgin land, with a nearly touched nature.
His people have reached to keep alive most of the traditional values, and this
is the best of the country, the sincere friendship and the hospitality of his
people, that never ask nothing in return and that, maybe for its isolation,
they still preserve a certain amount of purity.
Finalizing the trip,
after sharing lots of magic experiences, you can see that the main charm of the
country is the temples, pagodas and all the Buddhist relics. The country is
plenty of them. Sometimes you could think that this is going down as our
religion in our country, but conversely, Buddhism is deeply impregnated in the
bodies and hearts of the Burmese people. From the youngest to the elders aspire
to be like Buddha, their paradigm. Everybody is voluntary to rebuild temples,
to clean Pagodas, to make offerings every single day, to pray from the heart;
to love what they believe.
I would describe it as
the journey of sensations, the magical journey.
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